Thanks for your comments tom3 and Its Me. When you have a shop and you need to put this on a bill, this often make the engine go to trash - and sometime on auction for close to nothing, to make someone else happy This is however where I need to go to fix the valve issue, but the downside of this engine is you need to remove the muffler, the carburetor, the fuel tank and bracket/throttle plate to access it. I think the carburetor and the muffler was the last disassembled things - at least recently, not recent traces on the valve cover / breather. So definitely someone tried to make it run correctly, scratches and marks are there, but nothing broken until now, that's a good start.Ĭurrent state of disassembly. This is not needed, even if those rubbers are always a bit loose, they are not cracked. Others traces of "human being there" in the past, including coil rubbing on the flywheel and customs "clamps" for breather tube, with RTV in bonus. I can rotate this one by hand when closed, and when I removed the air filter I was able to hear a "pschhhh" from the intake.įor sure, I have to set the valve lash and do a good lapping to make them seal properly. The other source of low compression are the valve, at least the intake. We can see the missing part on the gasket (still on the head below), the traces on the block between cylinder and bolt - and this bolt had some carbon built up on it ! First, head gasket is damaged, it is leaking at the most right bolt on picture. But some cleaning to do for sure.Ībout low compression, I think there is two problems. Good new, as if the cylinder is toast, the engine is toast too. No play of the piston in cylinder at TDC. Some traces of use of course, but crosshatch is still visible. Cylinder looks ok, nothing I can feel with my fingernail. Inside there is some carbon build up, I'm not sure the valve are sealing good. Someone did some repairs -or try to do- on it. The 3 longs bolts are not in the right spot anymore, and we have marks on almost all fasteners. this can explain the look of the spark plug too.įoam is close to disintegrating, but they are known for. Wow air filter is really old and dirty, and prefilter even worst. I don't know yet if I will remplace the crackshaft seals ? For flywheel side this mean I need to remove the crankshaft, but I'm not sure I will go this far - I not needed I leave the piston and the rod assembled. ![]() The base is quite oily, I think replacing all the gaskets will be needed. Time to remove the head to know more, but first the shroud with the recoil. At least it the good reference, NGK BPMR6A that cross with original Champion RCJ8. It has oil (thanks oil alert - this force people to at least fill it) and it does not look too bad - will see better when I drain it.Ĭompression is low, spark plug is a NGK so not original, and changed by someone did not have a spark plug wrench (broke a bit of a fin and pliers marks on the plug).īut it has spark, that's good too! Spark plug is fouled and the gap is too small, 0.55mm instead of 0.75mm nominal. very faded, it has dealt with weather for sure during at least a part of this 30+ years old - it's a 1990 model.Įven come more than half a fuel tank, and it is not rusty. It's not locked up, but has low compression feeling on the rope. I just pick it up today, it was close to my location. best case I can make it run, worst case I'm happy to do some wrenching and I save parts for the other motor.įurthermore with the current stay-home period, I have something to play with when the wether is bad. Si I won for five bucks the auction of the following motor, that was the description, I even don't know what was the usage/application :įor this price I don't need to know anything else. I love those old Briggs flatheads, especially the 5HP I/C with sleeved cylinder, dual bearings and oil alert. Last year I worked on a similar engine used as a generator.
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